I will show you steps by steps how to grow your own
mushrooms.
Four Easy Steps: The basic steps in the growth cycle are:1. Making the Compost
Raw materials for the compost are mixed together, moistened and composted.2. Spawning.
The compost is placed in containers or beds, under cover, and spawn is added. Conditions are controlled to achieve optimum growth of the spawn so that it can fill the compost with mycelia over a period of weeks.3. Casing.
Casing involves placing a layer on top of the compost, to bring about environmental conditions which encourage the formation of fruiting bodies (ie: The mushrooms which are eaten).4. Harvest
After several weeks, the first crop is picked. Further crops occur every week or so (These are called flushes). After a month or two, the flushes decline and the compost should be discarded and the process started again.
NB: You can avoid the first step by purchasing a mushroom kit from a nursery or chain store, with the compost already prepared for you.
MAKING YOUR OWN COMPOST
If you want to grow a lot of
mushrooms, you may decide to make your own compost. The quality of
mushroom compost has a very big affect on the success of a crop.
A three stage operation is normally used in making mushroom compost:
A three stage operation is normally used in making mushroom compost:
Stage 1. (Preconditioning)
The raw materials are mixed, moistened & allowed to undergo some initial decomposition in a large heap. A mixture of manure and straw usually makes up the bulk of the compost. Keep moist but not over wet during this stage. To every 100kg of straw and manure add 1.5kg of gypsum and 1 2kg of urea or ammonium sulphate. If composting successfully, the centre of the heap will become hot and it's colour will darken within two weeks.Stage 2. (Composting)
Decomposition is now hastened by turning the heap every 2 3 days and watering when necessary to keep it moist.Stage 3. (Peak Heating)
After a further 2 4 weeks, the compost is moved indoors (into a shed) where temperature & oxygen content are better controlled, to complete the composting. The temperature should be kept between 40 and 60 degrees centigrade in the heap. This is done by making the heap smaller or larger, turning it frequently and monitoring the temperature carefully with a thermometer. At these temperatures pasteurization should occur, killing off harmful pests & diseases.At the end of this stage, the compost will be uniform throughout, have a non greasy texture and will be dark brown (perhaps with a flecking of white fire fang fungus) throughout. There should be no trace of ammonia smell which occurred earlier.
Mushroom compost will grow mushrooms best if used as soon as possible after it has been prepared.
Spawning
Spawn production is a very sophisticated scientific process, hence most mushroom growers do not produce their own spawn. They buy it from a few, specialized producers who are able to maintain standards and ensure freshness.
Spawn varies in colour depending on age. Very fresh spawn sometimes does not even show any sign of the white mycelium growth of the fungi. If spawn is very densely covered by the white fibrous mycelium growth, this may indicate it is too old. In both of these cases, it will generally still give an acceptable result.
Always check spawn for visible signs of non mushroom growth. Other fungal mycelia may vary in colour or growth form. If it appears that there are two different types of mycelia growing, then the spawn should not be used.
There are various different strains of spawn, each giving different types of mushrooms. (white, off white, brown, cream etc). A spawn supplier will usually offer different types of spawn, and will advise on which is the best for your situation.Some mushroom farms also run laboratories which produce and sell spawn.
Spawning is carried out as follows:
Spawning
Spawn production is a very sophisticated scientific process, hence most mushroom growers do not produce their own spawn. They buy it from a few, specialized producers who are able to maintain standards and ensure freshness.
Spawn varies in colour depending on age. Very fresh spawn sometimes does not even show any sign of the white mycelium growth of the fungi. If spawn is very densely covered by the white fibrous mycelium growth, this may indicate it is too old. In both of these cases, it will generally still give an acceptable result.
Always check spawn for visible signs of non mushroom growth. Other fungal mycelia may vary in colour or growth form. If it appears that there are two different types of mycelia growing, then the spawn should not be used.
There are various different strains of spawn, each giving different types of mushrooms. (white, off white, brown, cream etc). A spawn supplier will usually offer different types of spawn, and will advise on which is the best for your situation.Some mushroom farms also run laboratories which produce and sell spawn.
Spawning is carried out as follows:
*Grains of spawn should be separated from each other as thoroughly as possible as the spawn is spread over the surface of the compost.
*Spawn should be mixed evenly throughout the compost.
*Conditions should be kept as sterile as possible (Wear clean clothing and footwear, wash your hands before carrying out spawning, tools should be sterilized in, formalin or some other antiseptic which will not damage the mushroom).
*Do not add spawn to compost while the temperature of the compost is above 30 degrees centigrade. (34 degrees will kill the mycelia).
*If there is any ammonia present in the compost (ie: through composting being incomplete), the mycelia is not likely to grow.
The optimum temperature for the mycelia to grow is 25C.
Three or four days following spawning, a cottony growth should appear around the grain, and depending on conditions, the mycelia should have thoroughly grown through the compost after about 2 weeks.
Once the mycelia have grown to this point it will generate increased heat in the compost. It is important that the temperature be held down, and this is normally done by ventillation or by a cooling system.
Casing
The mycelia which grow throughout
the compost, following spawning is the vegetative growth stage of the
mushroom. Actual edible mushrooms are the fruiting stage of growth, and
as such, they do not begin to form until something happens to stimulate a
change from vegetative growth to fruiting body formation.
By putting a layer of material (the process is called casing), over the top of the compost, this required change is stimulated and mushrooms begin to form.
By putting a layer of material (the process is called casing), over the top of the compost, this required change is stimulated and mushrooms begin to form.
WE DO NOT FULLY UNDERSTAND WHY CASING CAUSES THIS CHANGE TO OCCUR.
There are many different materials which can be used: pulped paper, compost, cow dung, old/used mushroom compost, peat and sphagnum mosses, or mixtures of any of these.
There are many different materials which can be used: pulped paper, compost, cow dung, old/used mushroom compost, peat and sphagnum mosses, or mixtures of any of these.
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The casing material is usually high in organic material, and should be free of pests & diseases (ideally sterilized).
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Casing material can be sterilized by drenching in formaldahyde solution or by pasteurization at 60oC for 3 hours.
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Casing material should have an open texture, not repel water (as do some organic materials) when dry, and have a pH between 6.5 and 8.
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Casing material should normally be as wet as possible when applied to the beds and is usually applied to a depth of 25 to 50cm over the top of the compost.
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Casing material is normally applied about 2 weeks after the spawn has fully run through the compost. (NB: When spawn has fully run, there will be a visible mass of grey white fibrous mycelia through the compost).
Test the depth at frequent intervals to be certain that the casing is being applied evenly.
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